Fall Soups

YELLOW SPLIT PEA SOUP WITH BEER AND BACON

Canadians are fond of using yellow split peas in soups rather than the drab green variety. While both are species of field pea, I find that the yellow ones are milder and sweeter, and I use them for salads as well as soups. This soup is spiked with yeasty beer, and it goes wonderfully with Cheddar Beer Bread.

SERVES 6 TO 8

INGREDIENTS

1/4 pound bacon, diced
1 large carrot, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 celery rib, chopped
1 (12-ounce) can lager beer
4 cups ham or chicken stock
1 pound yellow split peas, rinsed well
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

METHOD

Cook the bacon in a 4-quart soup pot over medium-high heat for 5 to 7 minutes, or until crisp. Remove the bacon from the pot with a slotted spoon, and drain on paper towels. Set aside. Discard all but 3 tablespoons of bacon grease from the pot.
Add the carrot, onion, garlic and celery to the pot. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Add the beer, stock, split peas, parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally.
Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and cook the soup for 1 hour, or until the split peas have disintegrated. Remove and discard the bay leaf and season the soup to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, garnishing each serving with some of the reserved bacon.

Note: The soup can be prepared up to two days in advance and refrigerated, tightly covered. Reheat it over low heat, stirring occasionally. Add stock or water if the soup needs thinning after reheating.

Even if the garbage disposal is running, never discard bacon grease down the sink. It’s a surefire way to incur a visit from your plumber. I suggest saving it to use in cooking as a more flavorful option than butter or olive oil. If you’re going to dispose of it, allow it to cool, pour it into an old cream container and place it with your garbage and not anything to be recycled.

BEEF AND BEET BORSCHT

Roasting the beets intensifies their innate sweetness, and also turns this traditional Eastern European soup a bright crimson red. Serve it with a loaf of Limpa or Pretzel Rolls.

SERVES 6 TO 8

INGREDIENTS

1 pound fresh beets
1 pound boneless chuck roast, trimmed and cut into 3/4-inch dice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, diced
1 large carrot, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
6 cups firmly packed shredded green cabbage
6 cups beef stock
1 (14.5 ounce) can diced tomatoes, undrained
2 tablespoons tomato paste
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 pound redskin potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1-inch cubes
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
3/4 cup sour cream, for garnish

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 425F. Cut the leaves off the beets, leaving the stems attached. Scrub the beets gently, and wrap them in a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Place the foil packet on a baking sheet, and bake the beets for 1 to 1 1/4 hours, or until the beets are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife. When the beets are cool enough to handle, peel them and cut them into 1/2-inch dice. While the beets bake, rinse the beef and pat it dry with paper towels.
Sprinkle the beef with salt and pepper.
Heat the oil in a 4 quart soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the beef, and brown it well on all sides. Remove the beef from the pot with a slotted spoon, and set aside. Add the onion, carrot, and garlic to the pot, and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Add the cabbage, and cook for 2 minutes, or until the cabbage wilts.
Return the beef to the pot, and add the stock, tomatoes, tomato paste and parsley. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer the soup, covered, for 1 1/2 hours, adding the beets to the pot when they are ready.
Add the potatoes, lemon juice, and sugar to the pot, and boil for an additional 30 minutes, or until the beef and potatoes are tender.
Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper, and serve immediately, garnishing each serving with sour cream.

Note: The soup can be prepared up to two days in advance and refrigerated, tightly covered. Reheat it over low heat, stirring occasionally.

The pigment that gives beets their rich, purple-crimson color — betacyanin — is also a powerful cancer-fighting agent. Beets’ potential effectiveness against colon cancer, in particular, has been demonstrated in several studies. They are also high in manganese and folate.

TOMATO SOUP WITH MINT AND GINGER

Canned tomatoes are a convenience food no cook can live without, especially during the winter, when the tomatoes in most parts of the country are not local. This soup, developed by former New Rivers owner Bruce Tillinghast, proves tomato soup can be a year-round treat. The nuances of fresh mint and sharp ginger add a complexity to the eating experience. Serve it with Popovers.

SERVES 6 TO 8

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large sweet onion, such as Vidalia or Bermuda, diced
1 celery rib, sliced
1 parsnip, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
5 sprigs fresh mint, leaves removed from stems and both reserved
2 cups vegetable stock
4 cups canned tomatoes packed in tomato purée, chopped, undrained
3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons firmly packed dark brown sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

METHOD

Heat the oil in a 4 quart soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, parsnip and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Add the crushed red pepper, bay leaf, thyme, mint stems, stock and tomatoes. Bring to a boil over medium heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes.
Remove and discard the bay leaf, and stir in the ginger and brown sugar. Allow the soup to cool for 10 minutes. Purée with an immersion blender, or in a food processor fitted with the steel blade. If using a food processor, you may have to work in batches. Cut the mint leaves into a chiffonade, reserving a few whole leaves for garnish, and stir them into the soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve immediately, garnishing each serving with whole mint leaves.

Note: The soup can be prepared up to two days in advance and refrigerated, tightly covered. Reheat it over low heat, stirring occasionally. Do not stir in the chiffonade of mint until just prior to serving.

Chiffonade is a way of cutting herb leaves and vegetables like spinach that gives you really thin and long slices. Start by stacking the leaves, and then roll your stack tightly. Then cut the rolled stack into very thin slices.

VEGETABLE SOUP WITH POACHED EGGS

This soup is based on a common vegetarian soup from the region around Bra in Italy. Adding a poached egg enriches the broth and makes it into a true meal. Serve this with a crusty loaf of Garlic and Cheese Bread.

SERVES 6 TO 8

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, diced
2 celery ribs, diced
1 carrot, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 quarts vegetable or chicken stock
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons tomato paste
3 medium redskin potatoes, diced
1 (4-inch) Parmesan rind (optional)
1 pound small zucchini, diced
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
6 to 8 large eggs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

METHOD

Heat the oil in a 4 quart soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, carrot and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, or until the onion is translucent.
Stir in the stock, parsley, oregano, basil, thyme, bay leaf, tomato paste, potatoes and Parmesan rind, if using. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes, or until the vegetables are almost tender. Add the zucchini and simmer for an additional 10 to 12 minutes, or until the zucchini is tender.
While the soup simmers, prepare the poached eggs. Bring 3 inches of water and the vinegar to a boil in a deep 10-inch skillet. Reduce the heat so that the water barely simmers. Break cold eggs, one at a time, into a custard cup or saucer. Holding the cup close to the water’s surface, slip the egg into the simmering water. Repeat with the rest of the eggs, adding them quickly so they will all cook in about the same time. Cook the eggs for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on desired doneness, keeping the water just barely simmering. Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon in the order you added them. Dip each in a bowl of cold salted water for 10 seconds to remove the vinegar and stop the cooking. Place the eggs gently onto a kitchen towel to drain, and trim off any loose whites.
Remove and discard the bay leaf and Parmesan rind, if used. Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper, and serve immediately. To serve, ladle the soup into shallow bowls and top each serving with a poached egg.

Note: The soup can be prepared up to two days in advance and refrigerated, tightly covered. Reheat it over low heat, stirring occasionally. Do not poach the eggs until just prior to serving.Store eggs in the carton they come in to help prevent moisture loss and to keep the eggs from picking up other odors. Never rinse eggs until you’re about to use them; water makes the shells porous and can cause the eggs to spoil faster and allow bacteria to enter.